Three-Cheese Baked Ziti

• Pasta
• 1 lb ziti or penne
• 1 tbsp kosher salt, for the pasta water
  Swaps for kosher salt

  Instead of salt

  • Table salt or fine sea salt: About half as much as Diamond Crystal kosher, about ¾ as much as Morton kosher. The same saltiness when measured this way.
  • Salt by weight: 1 tsp is about 6 grams of table salt, 5 grams of Morton kosher, 3 grams of Diamond Crystal kosher. The most reliable way to swap, especially in baking and brines.

  More for salt

• Sauce
• 2 tbsp olive oil
  Swaps for olive oil

  Instead of olive oil

  • Avocado oil or another neutral oil: The same amount. No olive flavor; avocado oil handles higher heat.
  • Butter: The same amount. Richer and nutty when browned.
  • A neutral oil + more seasoning: The same amount. Dressings lose the fruity, peppery note; a little extra lemon, garlic or mustard makes up for it.

  More for olive oil

• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
  Swaps for onion

  Instead of onion

  • Another onion: The same amount. Yellow is the all-rounder; white is sharper and crisper; red is milder raw and adds color; sweet onions are mildest.
  • Shallots: The same amount, chopped. Milder and sweeter, with a hint of garlic.
  • Leeks: About 1½ times as much, white and light green parts. Milder and softer when cooked.

  All 4 swaps for onion

• 4 cloves garlic, minced
  Swaps for garlic

  Instead of garlic

  • Garlic powder: ⅛ tsp for each clove. Mellower and sweeter, with no bite.
  • Jarred minced garlic: ½ tsp for each clove. Milder and slightly sour from the preserving liquid.

  More for garlic

• 1 tsp dried oregano
  Swaps for dried oregano

  Instead of oregano

  • Fresh oregano: 1 tbsp chopped fresh for each 1 tsp dried (three times as much). Brighter and more peppery; use a little less than you think.
  • Dried marjoram, Italian seasoning or dried basil: The same amount. Marjoram is milder, basil sweeter; Italian seasoning already has oregano in it.

  More for oregano

• ¼ tsp red pepper flakes
  Swaps for red pepper flakes

  Instead of red pepper flakes

  • Cayenne: About half as much. Even heat throughout, no flakes.
  • Hot sauce or chili crisp: To taste. Hot sauce adds vinegar; chili crisp adds crunch and oil.
  • A fresh hot chile: Half a jalapeño or serrano for each ½ tsp. Fresh, green heat.

  More for red pepper flakes

• 1 can crushed tomatoes, 28 oz
  Swaps for crushed tomatoes

  Instead of canned tomatoes

  • Whole peeled tomatoes, crushed: The same amount. The same flavor; a slightly chunkier sauce.
  • Tomato paste + water: ¼ cup tomato paste whisked with ¾ cup water for each cup. Smooth and a little more concentrated.

  More for canned tomatoes

• 1 can tomato sauce, 15 oz
  Swaps for tomato sauce

  Instead of canned tomatoes

  • Crushed tomatoes, blended smooth: The same amount, with a pinch of salt. Thicker and fresher than tomato sauce.
  • Tomato paste + water: ¼ cup tomato paste whisked with ¾ cup water for each cup. Smooth and a little more concentrated.

  More for canned tomatoes

• 1 tsp kosher salt
  Swaps for kosher salt

  Instead of salt

  • Table salt or fine sea salt: About half as much as Diamond Crystal kosher, about ¾ as much as Morton kosher. The same saltiness when measured this way.
  • Salt by weight: 1 tsp is about 6 grams of table salt, 5 grams of Morton kosher, 3 grams of Diamond Crystal kosher. The most reliable way to swap, especially in baking and brines.

  More for salt

• 1 tsp sugar, if your tomatoes taste sharp (optional)
  Swaps for sugar

  Instead of sugar

  • Less sugar: Up to ¼ less in cookies, muffins and quick breads. Less browning and spread, a drier, more cake-like texture, and bakes go stale sooner.
  • Brown sugar: The same amount, packed. Moister and chewier, with a caramel flavor and darker color.
  • Coconut sugar: The same amount. Darker and caramel-like, a little less sweet; cookies spread slightly less.

  All 4 swaps for sugar

• Cheese
• 15 oz ricotta, whole-milk
  Swaps for ricotta

  Instead of ricotta

  • Cottage cheese: The same amount, drained and pulsed a few times in a blender. Wetter and saltier; drain it well and cut other salt a little.
  • Firm tofu, mashed: The same amount, mashed with a squeeze of lemon and a pinch of salt. Mild and crumbly; close in lasagna and stuffed shells.
  • Mascarpone: The same amount. Much richer and smoother.

  More for ricotta

  Cooking for an allergy? Check every label.

• 1 large egg
  Swaps for egg

  Instead of eggs

  • Flax egg: 1 tbsp ground flaxseed + 3 tbsp water for each egg. Binds well but gives less lift, so bakes are a little denser and flatter, with a mild nutty taste and brown flecks.
  • Chia egg: 1 tbsp chia seeds + 3 tbsp water for each egg. Works like a flax egg: good binding, little lift, slightly denser crumb.
  • Unsweetened applesauce: ¼ cup for each egg. Moister and denser, with a soft, slightly gummy crumb if you swap more than one egg.

  All 5 swaps for eggs

  Cooking for an allergy? Check every label.

• ½ cup parmesan, finely grated, divided ≈ 50 g
  Swaps for parmesan

  Instead of parmesan

  • Pecorino Romano: The same amount. Sharper and saltier (it is made from sheep's milk), so go easy on other salt.
  • Grana Padano: The same amount. Milder and a little softer, very close otherwise.
  • Nutritional yeast: 2 tbsp for each ¼ cup grated parmesan. Nutty and cheesy, but it doesn't melt or brown.

  More for parmesan

  Cooking for an allergy? Check every label.

• ¼ cup fresh basil, chopped
  Swaps for fresh basil

  Instead of basil

  • Dried basil: 1 tsp dried for each 1 tbsp chopped fresh (a third as much). Flatter and more savory: dried basil loses its sweet, clove-like smell.
  • Spinach or arugula + parsley (for pesto): The same amount of greens. Greener and milder (arugula is peppery); still a good pesto.
  • Fresh mint or oregano: Half as much. Different but fresh; mint suits Thai dishes, oregano suits Italian.

  More for basil

• 1 lb mozzarella, shredded (about 4 cups), divided

Different pan? Written for 9x13-inch rectangle; rescale the amounts for an 8x8, 9x13, round, loaf or sheet pan.

Cooking for a crowd? Pans, timing and salt for 12 to 50.

Missing something? Tap Swaps next to an ingredient, or see all substitutions.